Amen. This is an absolute rule in all aspects of life and engineering. I propose we call it Syonyk’s Law.
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Some of the ones I’m looking at do, some of the older ones I doubt it, but may.
Standard 2" if you want to run a bike rack. The euro/hidden ones are nice for towing, but don’t have the same utility.
Oh, and 2-3k lbs don’t really need trailer brakes…
On the Jetta cross country trip… I may very well have been exceeding 75 from time to time… 4 pin was perfectly fine.
So it’s official, the dealership won’t install just the controller/wiring harness “because another receiver hitch might not have the same spacing/connectors”. And they won’t install a 3rd party brake controller because it’s 3rd party. And I asked if they had any brake controllers. They don’t. (!#Y%&(!Y$&#Y$&^
I’m still tempted to get the OEM hitch though, since it looks like it’s a good height, it’s solid, won’t be any problems, etc. And then get the brake controller installed from someone else. And if I’m being honest, I already have a regular bike rack, and haven’t had the need to have any other 2" receiver accessories. So being real, it’s a nice thought, but I don’t see it as something that really would make a difference to me.
https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lb-capacity-aluminum-cargo-carrier-92655.html or similar are the only ones I’ve ever really been interested in, because sometimes you need just a bit more space and don’t want to drag out the entire trailer.
But probably not worth all things considered.
You really want the variable adjustments if you have a cargo trailer and have a highly variable load (i.e. from empty to full). For something like a boat trailer, you’d set the brakes for having the boat on it and turn it off when it’s empty, otherwise the trailer brakes will grab first and you’ll be skidding the trailer around. It’s mostly just annoying when you’re trying to park the thing. Ditto for a travel trailer; the weight won’t change much, and the braking controller won’t matter as much.
So decided to go with the official tow package, even with it being so pricey. I already have a solid roof rack, so any extra bit of cargo space I can handle just fine. Already have a bike rack for the back, so without the trailer wouldn’t necessarily need a receiver bike rack, although could be handier. And with the trailer I can fit my bike inside, or possibly get a bike rack on the back (I’d ensure weight balance by moving stuff forward if I need). And I’ll get a brake controller installed via 3rd party. Also means resale value will be more stable, since the “feature” of stealth and clearance will remain basically the same.
It’s annoying, but in a couple of years I’ll start looking at my next vehicle, and keep all the lessons learned from this experience in mind, for whatever vehicle I get next. Anyone know if there’s a modestly sized station wagon/small crossover/hatchback/jeep hybrid that can handle decent towing?
It’s certainly going to be interesting in 10 or 15 years, for all the folks who have travel trailers, when all the new vehicles are generally electric. Or more or less. Cause electric and recharging and camping/boondocking will basically require a good sized generator and gas, or a LOOT more fast chargers on the roads and especially in the small towns, as well as larger pull-through charging spots.
I still expect a lot of that to be served by PHEVs. You still get unlimited range, and if you can get an inverter mode in them, they’re a quiet, efficient little generator in the deal.
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Sure quiet, but are they as efficient and as clean (or not) of emissions as direct gas/hybrid powertrain on the tow vehicle? I don’t know, why I’m asking.
Heck, you can even get a dual fuel propane/gas, just bring an extra 1 or 2 20lb tanks and you get a nice stable fuel you can just keep around, and not quite as much maintenance on the generator, or at least generally not as messy without having the fuel filter and such needing the same kind of replacement. Or if it’s a short trip, even split and run it off of the trailer tank(s).
This little guy with a couple of 1lb tanks stashed away just in case could be handy. I’m actually contemplating maybe getting it for the trailer, as a just in case. Probably not, unless the size difference with a 2K watt is a lot different for me. Then again, I’m also planning on going solar, all I’ll really have is a few small chargers and LED lights and such. Any heating/cooking will be done on propane.
Probably look at some kind of easy to collapse frame and 1 or 2 flexible solar panels to keep the weight down, do them ground mount. And then also anchor to the ground of course. Hm. Will still need a small 20-40W somehow setup to help maintain the battery charge when it’s sitting for a while. And of course replace with LiFePO4 when I can. Probably the BattleBorn ones.
My argument was that a lot of the tow vehicles for that sort of thing will be PHEV, with trailer loads run from the tow vehicle power system.
Ohhh, PHEV, for some reason my brain turned that into just EV. Not PHEV. Strange. Sure, but the proposed fleet changes will eventually be pure EV.
Although if they somehow can get hydrogen production cost-effective from non-reforming techniques, might end up being that. I’m skeptical though, except in limited applications.
I’ve been surprised by the tow ratings on some of these new minivans. And the Kia Carnaval or whatever it is actually looks like an SUV. (They fit 11 people in it in Asia!)
So, I’ve done it! Spent a bunch of money and haven’t bought a trailer yet. OEM hitch (with weird computer module) that has full powered 12v, and a new proportional brake controller just installed today. Should add some decent re-sell value eventually, is my thought.
And took a look at my first trailer! Apparently one of the previous owners got a different frame that’s a bit extended,for a utility box up front and a spare on the back. And the back looks perfect to get a 2" receiver installed for a bike carrier. And then I can put some extra weight into the front storage box to help balance it back correctly. Looks like the frame needs to be stripped and repainted. Sides/top aren’t too bad, although showing spots of rust, but the underside it’s getting about time.
Here’s the trailer before, and here’s the current frame. My guess is I should budget 2k minimum for that, what do you think? I do have a friend with some space I might be able to get to help me pull off the shell, strip everything on the frame, and repaint and be in the garage area for a few days to fully cure before putting back on. Frame isn’t critical to get done ASAP, but definitely sooner than later IMO. The more you keep it maintained, the less it costs over the long haul.
Has an ice box, but plenty of room to get a small 12v compressor fridge, I’ll get a 100Ah (maybe 2 eventually) LiFePO4, and figuring maybe a expandable folding rig for 2 + 2 flexible (they’re lighter and thinner) solar panels. The front utility box looks perfect to put in some MC4 pass-through and put an MPPT inside, and mount the battery(ies) in there and run some 12 awg in through the existing drip hole for the ice box.
Also the 110v & 7-pin 12v don’t have any kind of connection to the battery for charging provisioning. I’d like to figure something out for the 12v from the car at least, that way I can help keep the battery topped off and run the fridge, and also ensure power for the breakaway controller. Just an extra safety factor.
I haven’t seen one like that before. Is that a fiberglass shell? Cute design!
$2k to buy it or just to fix it up? If it is to buy that’s a very reasonable price especially if the inside is in good shape.
I’ve never encountered a breakaway controller that was powered from the RV/trailer, always kept charged from just the 12v 7 pin. You’re saying you also want to run the fridge from the car? I wouldn’t recommend that. If you forget to disconnect that after the car is off even once your battery will be going away in a hurry.
Nice! That should work!
I don’t think that frame looks terribly bad, personally… but I don’t know what weather you’re going to be dealing with either.
I’m… really not sure what you’re talking about with batteries and breakaway controllers and car batteries, though. I’m with Canem here, I’ve always seen the breakaway battery as a separate little UPS battery on the tongue, powered from the 7 pin connector. Definitely don’t use your car battery to run anything trailery, that’s a path to killing the car battery for sure.