I suspect they did test it in higher temps (if just to verify it shuts down and doesn’t burst into flame) - and there is a long list of “known issues” that aren’t disclosed publicly.
“Beta” covers a lot of flaws.
I suspect they did test it in higher temps (if just to verify it shuts down and doesn’t burst into flame) - and there is a long list of “known issues” that aren’t disclosed publicly.
“Beta” covers a lot of flaws.
Oh man. Now I want the firmware images…
Too many other projects, though.
I also gagged when I saw the 100W continuous draw. My intended use is mobile: drive somewhere, setup, connect for a hour or two, tear down, drive off. I also suspected RV users would be extremely interested in this, but not at 100W; at least not around the clock for “work-from-rv” workers.
If there’s a 4-5x multiplier between PV solar panels and power produced, 2.4kW/day ~= 500-600 W of panels, ignoring the power lost charging a battery and the efficiency loss in the inverter. Of course if you only run it 12 hours a day, that gets cut in half.
Welcome!
Supposedly the newer units are somewhat better - 50-60W, vs 100W. And there have been some minor improvements from firmware updates, though I’m not sure how substantial that is.
But, yes, you’re correct - you’re looking at about two house panels, with reasonably good positioning, to run Dishy for 24h. On a 12V system, that’s also 200Ah - or most of the capacity of a standard T105 battery (well below recommended cycling depth for longevity) to run it for a day.
The thing is a power hungry pig.
… If there’s a 4-5x multiplier between PV solar panel power (kw) and energy produced (kwh)…
Give or take - that “kW to daily kWh” is the “peak sun hours” metric, and in the US it ranges from ~4 to ~6 as an annual average (based on location), with it obviously being worse in the winter. And then you hit inversions. Out here, my ~2280W of office panel, in a bad winter, could produce less than 500Wh (yes, 0.5kWh) on a really bad winter day. I’ve improved that by adding more panel, but I believe the worst day for the 15.9kW house system was something like 2.4kWh - for the whole day. Barely ran the inverters and they spent most of the morning whining about lack of DC voltage. Peak summer production is 100kWh, and even in the heat and smoke we’re generating 80kWh - though today will likely be lower, dark morning from probably clouds.
Starlink would be very well suited to an intermittent style connectivity. Very fast, very power hungry, so run it for half an hour, sync stuff down, shut it down.
If the newer versions truly are 50-60W, that’s starting to be a lot better. Not sure I see that they can get it down to 10W “idle”, because modern systems/devices generally are never truly idle long. Always some pings to the Internet checking for updates, checking for new messages, etc, etc.
If they can get it down to ~25-30W without doing heavy data transfers, that’d be the bees knees, and 50-60W doing significant data transfers.
Do you know if they’re shipping the newer units yet? I’m pondering getting one (it’s live in our house in southern Oregon)
I would assume so, since I’ve seen reports of them in the wild, but I’ve no idea if they’re all the new units, or just a few so far.
Another option to look at is Speedify. It apparently allows you to aggregate connections together. I haven’t used it before but read about it in a post I saw on hacker news where someone had 6 internet connections for his work from “home” camper van.
I’ve seen it, and it looks interesting (should certainly work), but I’m just not sure it’s worth the cost to add it, for what is a “mostly reliable” set of connections. In the house, failing over to Starlink from our terrestrial WISP is as easy as switching SSIDs, and in my office it’s a bit harder, but if the internet is down for half an hour… I get stuff done offline. I don’t have much that requires dead reliable internet, and if I do, I’ll probably run it on a cloud VM anyway. I’ve set up my life and infrastructure as “local first.” I can do just about everything I want, including setting up new VMs and such, purely locally. I have my own Ubuntu mirror onsite.
The other thing is that I’ve been trying to use the internet a lot less, and in smaller chunks of time - so it being a bit glitchy just isn’t the end of the world to me.
Speaking of which @Syonyk, you seeing any improvements in reliability or speed since they’ve launched a number more satellites?
Not sure. It’s been reliable enough that I just kind of let it ride. I haven’t noticed outages on it recently, which is an improvement, but I haven’t been speed testing and doing my own analysis either. It’s good enough to not bug me as a secondary/bulk transfer connection now.
My starlink terminal is shipping, ETA Tuesday!
Let us know if it’s rev 1 or rev 2, and if it’s rev 2, the power usage!
rev1. Unfortunately, my Service Address is set to the vacation home, and I hadn’t heard they implemented a geofence. Practically, I think it’s more that they haven’t implemented dynamic backhaul / satellite routing; I can only imagine how you build a routing table for millions of end points.
Trying to change my Service Address via the website returns “We are currently at capacity and unable to provide service in this area. Please check back in at a later time.”
When I try to change my service address to a friend’s house (no dsl, terrestrial wireless at a cost of $200/mo) in a rural area south of the bay area (only 25 miles south of my billing address), I get “We are not currently providing service in this area. Please check back in at a later time.”
So currently I have zero connectivity. Asking support whether they can force change my Service Address or not.
If you want to run Dishy on DC: https://www.tuckstruck.net/truck-and-kit/geekery/modifying-the-starlink-power-supply-to-run-on-ac-and-dc/
Not worth the hassle since I’m coming off grid power, but it makes a significant difference in power use.
So of course Telsa uses non-standard PoE injector. Why couldn’t they just use standard PoE++/802.3bt Type 4 to get to 100W over the ethernet cable is beyond me. Or heck, just make it a combined pair of 14awg + ethernet cable and have it split out nicely. Sure you still need a brick for the power, but at least it’s easy to get the right voltage/amp you need and just put it on the 14awg pair. sigh
At least, that’s my impression from reading that with saying that using that other PoE injector you need to change the ethernet cable pinouts.
And apparently space weather put 40 of 49 on the new launch back into the atmosphere, due to geomagnetic storms and swelling atmosphere causing drag.
Speeds are definitely down from six months ago. 6PM: 55Mbit down, 4.5Mbit up.