1939 Ford 9N Repair Work: Fuel, Air, and Oil

Continuing my Ford 9N repair series, this week covers the air, fuel, and oil systems.  If you’ve got no idea what I’m talking about, start with the overview post.  I own a 75 year old tractor that’s not been particularly well maintained for the past decade or so, and I’m fixing the problems with it.  This is something totally and completely unlike small electronics or cell phones, but it’s properly enjoyable to work on!

This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at https://www.sevarg.net/2017/11/26/1939-ford-9n-repair-work-fuel-air-and-oil/

(Comments from Blogger)

2017-11-25 by dthompson4447

Personally, I try to find a tractor junkyard and buy as much as is worthwhile from there
I have a Case VA, a bit newer than your 9N. By now you realize that tire chains are
very helpfull in winter, the cheap way is to put 2 truck chains together, try to find
at a metal scrapyard. You will likely have to repair them, almost impossable without torches,
easy if you have. Maybe a neighbor? New, they are quite expensive. Very worthwhile

2017-11-26 by dthompson4447

I’m not sure why you used brake line for your fuel line?
Brakes see 200-500 psi all the time, up to 2000psi max.
so the line needs to be steel. Maybe you have never used
house propane lights, connected with COPPER lines, 12" wp, 1/2psi
This is single flare (because copper doesn’t split) and copper
is somewhat malleable, seals more easily on cone
The fuel line would be the next size down (probably)
But if you have allready got the lines sealed…

2017-11-26 by Russell Graves

There’s a tractor junkyard in my general area, but it’s about a 45 minute drive and I haven’t made it there yet. I should probably go and look for parts next time I need stuff. I’m just afraid I’ll come back with another whole tractor…

I found a guy locally who collects old chains and builds custom chains - so I’ve got chains for this winter. They’re not new, but they’re a lot cheaper than new, and it’s keeping money and resources locally. I hope to not need them, but I thought that last winter and barely made it out of the driveway towards the end of winter - I’ve got about 1/8 mile of uphill driveway between the house and the road.

2017-11-26 by Russell Graves

Mostly because the advice I found was that copper tends to work harden from the vibration and can crack over time. Steel won’t have that problem.

They’re finally sealed, so that’s not a problem - I’ll go into much more detail on that next week.

2017-11-29 by dthompson4447

err… I think it has to have some load on it to crack,
maybe if there was some sympathetic vibration, quite large…
but ordinarily I think it quite unlikely, but you have it sealed,
so good enough, but you did say it was hard…

2019-01-23 by Unknown

The copper lines will just vibrate with the engine and eventually crack. Have you ever driven any type of tractor? The engine is bolted DIRECTLY to the rest of the parts, no rubber isolators. Also, copper will absorb heat from the exhaust manifold and add to vapor lock of the carburetor in the summer time. Copper tubing is more expensive than steel brake tubing. Copper tubing is about the same thickness as steel tubing, as I have flared both types a hundred times over the years. Factory inverted flares on the ends of steel brake lines are GREAT!!! Remember that the N series tractors (as well as Model A’s) have gravity feed fuel systems, and a crack in the line can be dangerous when spraying around spark plugs and hot exhaust manifolds.