2014/2015/2016 SkyActiv Mazda3 Oil Capacity & Change Procedures

Things needed for a 2014/2015/2016 SkyActiv Mazda 3 oil change: 5 quarts 0W-20, 6 quarts if you’ve got the 2.5L motor and are a “top of dipstick” kind of person.  A Wix 57002 filter.  An 8mm wrench or socket, an 8mm hex driver (or Allen wrench), and a medium flathead screwdriver.

This is a companion discussion topic for the original entry at https://www.sevarg.net/2016/08/20/201420152016-skyactiv-mazda3-oil/

(Comments from Blogger)

2016-08-23 by Unknown

The Mazda3 is such a beautiful car to look and drive, i hope we get EV version soon!

2016-08-29 by Dean Stevenson

This was very helpful Russell. Thanks for taking the time to write it up.

2016-09-01 by Ned Funnell

I am curious what you’re waiting on to get a plug-in car, either EV or PHEV. Long range needs?

2016-09-01 by Ned Funnell

I am curious what you’re waiting on to get a plug-in car, either EV or PHEV. Long range needs?

2016-09-01 by Russell Graves

When we bought the Mazda 3, we had no way to charge an EV, and our relationship with our landlord had calmed down from “adversarial” to “we leave each other alone and send rent checks.” I didn’t feel like either charging with a 110v extension cord in the rain or having to talk to the landlord again to try and get a charging circuit installed.

At this point, it’s mostly that we have a perfectly good paid-off car. The power from my panels is down by my office, which is a good distance from the house, and the path down to my office requires 4WD to get out on occasion (I walk, and my truck has 4WD, so not a problem).

I’ll probably pick up a beater Leaf at some point, but 60+ mile days are a regular thing out here, and moving a car seat between cars multiple times a day would get old in a hurry. If it’s just me, I mostly take an ebike anyway.

2016-10-05 by Unknown

Big fan of your website. My only suggestion to the above guys who are suggesting an EV and you is to look at the ford C-max energi. I am looking for one to get. Ridiculously cheap used. 20k miles and 2 years old can go for like 14-15k, or new for about 25k after rebates. The kicker is that you can get about 20-25miles on ev mode alone (speed does not cause the vehicle to go into gaser mode, range does) and still gets a respectable 40+mpg combined as a gaser. I am basically in your shoes, I have to get something like a family car to haul my kid and still be conscious of cost and environment. The C-max uses lithium packs not nicad like to toyota. 8 year warranty on them as well. Also for the oil, Ford and Mazda had years worth of partnership. Accross the entire line of these two vehicles 5-20 is recommended due to tolerances, the only down side is that 0-20 is harder to find. 5-20 will work just fine in that engine as well. Wonderful engines the skyactive engines.

2016-11-26 by Madden

Hi, there. Came across your blog upon searching the oil change process for my 2016 s Touring I just bought at the end of August. I hadn’t changed the oil in this one yet and I’ve never owned a Mazda so this was very helpful for me. On my 2016, I found 3 push clips needed to come out, but everything else was the same, of course. I had a hard time getting my wrench on the filter because of the rest of the aero cover. It definitely would have been easier if it were sideways, I’m with you there. The push clips were way more annoying going back in than coming out, at least in the cold. Anyway, thanks for the info. The specs and the info about the aero cover made this process much easier.

2016-11-26 by Madden

P.S. I did just fine lifting just the passenger side. Not my preference, but my floor jack wouldn’t reach the jack point on the front crossmember without more effort than I was willing to put forth.

2016-12-31 by thopkins777

Just changed the oil in my Mazda 3 for the first time and this writeup was helpful, thanks! I found it was not necessary to remove the push clip and instead used it as a hinge to rotate the cover out of the way. It took just a bit of wiggling to align the overlapping edges of the cover to the edges of the aero shield to be able to rotate it out of the way and then back over once the job was done.
Hopefully this tip can save some struggle to pull out that push clip since it turns out not to be necessary. Pulling it out also risks damage to the clip.

2017-01-02 by Unknown

I changed the oil in my girlfriend’s 2016 mazda 3 for the first time today. This post saved me pulling off random aero covers looking for the drain and filter. Thanks.

2017-01-08 by Unknown

Where did you place the jack stands? Im planning to do this in the summer but I’m stumped on where to place the stands. If you had any pics that would be great. Thanks!

2017-01-09 by Russell Graves

I generally jack and put jackstands under suspension members. Just look around behind the aero shield and there are plenty of places to lift and support from.

2017-01-12 by Unknown

Do I need to replace the whole drain plug bolt along with the gasget every time I do an oil change?

2017-01-12 by Russell Graves

Nope! The drain plug bolt should last the life of the car. You should replace the crush washer every time, though nobody does - perhaps every few years, you might consider replacing it.

2017-01-13 by Unknown

Thank you Russell! Do you happen to know the size of it?

2017-03-06 by Unknown

I recommend upgrading the drain bolt to a regular hex head, think I got mine at autozone, it has a 13mm head. Fumoto is a good idea but one negative I have heard of is that the end that threads into the pan can leave some oil behind which can lead to sludge at the bottom of the oil pan. I doubt its a common issue but I rather not risk it personally.

2017-03-07 by Earnie

I changed the oil and filter on my 2016 Mazda 3 Sport. I took the plastic cover off to expose the filter and drain plug. I went to Pep Boys and bought a 66/67 mm wrench to fit a recommended oil filter 6607 and 5 gallons of 0-20 synthetic. I found that the wrench that I bought was s bit too small and wouldn’t fit the filter on the car. I went back to get a larger wrench but they were all too large so I bought a strap one that fits all but it kept slipping.
I went on line and found that I needed a 68 mm wrench but a couple of other auto stores didn’t have one- non popular and a special order. So I went to a Mazda dealer to buy one only to find out that they don’t sell them. I asked to see the factory filter and it was 1 mm larger in diameter. Some poster said that they want you to get your oil and filter changed by the dealer and is why they have 68 mm filter and no wrench - not nice.
I went back to Pep Boys and found two 3 finger wrenches that fit all but they didn’t grab the 14 indentations on any filter. There was a wide 2 finger wrench that grabs by cutting into the metal canister/filter but it didn’t slip - so what if I ruin the old filter if I can get it off?

I put that 2 finger one (OEM cam action) on the stock filter and with a mallet I hit the end of the 3/8 ratchet to break the filter loose. I replaced it with the more available PH-6607 Fram filter changed the oil and finished in about 20 minutes not counting the hours spent looking for the 68 mm wrench that I didn’t find. I am set and skinny enough that I only had to jack up the passenger side.

Have fun.

2017-03-12 by Thermo

Great write up - thanks! Great tip on popping off the engine cover. I found some nesting materials under there, so it was good to get a look and clean that up.

Other comments - on my 2015 Mazda 3 2.0L GT, there were two push nuts and two 8mm nuts holding the access panel in place. I think the 8mm nuts can also be turned with a Philips head screw driver. Jacking up just the passenger side of the car is acceptable.

Also, as one could expect, the dealer-applied filter was ridiculously tight, so I had to get some filter tools from Harbor Freight. They sell a filter driver set and the smallest one will work with a 65mm filter (which is what the Mazda filters need). It’s a combo, so I had to bang the socket onto the filter to get it to grab on the smaller sized filter faces. Once I had the socket firmly on the filter, I was able to crank it off with a breaker bar. Of course, the filter says right on it “Do Not Overtighten” (just like they all do).

Lastly, the tip on filling the new filter with oil prior to installing is excellent - and perhaps that’s why they orient the filter they way they do. It seems like it would be harder to fill it and install if it was oriented on a side-face (horizontally).

2017-04-02 by Unknown

Thanks for the write-up. I installed the Fumoto valve. The cylinder that protrudes from housing and contains the handle lands at the very bottom of car when valve is properly torqued. I think it is lower than anything other than the underbody plastics which concerns me. Fumoto has a directions which are helpful for ensuring you lock valve (http://www.fumotousa.com/img/Original-Fumoto-Valves-Installation-and-Operation.pdf) and there is option lever clip.

2017-04-02 by Unknown

Additionally, from the directions in my previous post which I should have read before installing:

“On original Fumoto oil drain valves with nipples the hex head was used to assemble the valve and must not be used to install or remove the valve from service. Only use a wrench on the body of the valve. Please see pictures below.”

2017-04-02 by Russell Graves

If you’re regularly taking your Mazda 3 over surfaces that are rough and high enough to destroy the underbody plastics and rip the Fumoto valve off, you may not want to install one. I can’t say it concerns me particularly much - if you hit it with enough force to rip it off, the chances of doing damage to other important parts are very, very high as well.

2017-06-04 by Hoover

thank you. of all my tools, i didn’t own a 8mm hex wrench. $5.69 at the hardware store for the 3/8" - 8mm sockety thing. done. gracias

2017-07-02 by Unknown

I just finished the oil change on my 2017 GT. I also saw 3 clips, but only needed to remove 2. From what I can tell, the 3rd clip is used to hold the entire cover, not the access port.

2017-07-30 by Charles

Thank you for this excellent and helpful description of the process. Reading this before I changed the oil in my 2017 Mazda 3 helped me to know where to look for the drain plug and filter, as well as having that 8mm hex to loosen/tighten the plug. The manufacturer’s oil filter does not fit the oil filter wrench that the replacement 6607 filter uses. That was the only real hitch I encountered, but I had an adjustable wrench that I could use in removing the existing filter.

Again, thank you for the excellent writeup. You saved me a lot of time and frustration!

2017-08-18 by Marina Molnar

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2017-09-06 by Joshua Dow - COSC1401

Thanks for the write up. I just did mine using a Wix 57002 and I think it was leaking - but your mention of those oil amounts being only “halfway up the dipstick” makes me think otherwise. I was under the car just checking on things about a week after changing it, and I did notice a bit of oil on the filter, with a drop on the bottom. Behind there, I could see there was a bit of oil that had been sprayed on the undercarriage at speed - not a lot, but concerning. When I checked the levels I puckered a bit - it was only about halfway up, maybe a bit less. So I ran out and bought another filter and a few more quarts. I still think the Wix was leaking though - I just do them hand tight until I can’t tighten anymore with one hand. Hopefully it’s nothing major. The drain plug looked drier, and the crush washer is there. Weird.

2017-09-06 by Joshua Dow - COSC1401

I should also add, I did have a flashlight on the filter while it was running and couldn’t see any obvious leakage. Seems like it was happening at speed, if it was. Will try not to stress over it and keep an eye on my levels.

2017-09-09 by Unknown

Hey Russell,

I jacked up the car using the recommended jack points but confused on where to put the stands. Do you have a picture you can show me? thanks

2017-09-12 by Russell Graves

Just put them under the suspension pivots or something.

2017-11-06 by allroy71

Great write up! Thanks for sharing. I am wondering if the newer Fumoto F106SX valve will have better clearance?

2017-11-22 by Unknown

Thanks for this great blog!
I did my 2017 3 first oil change at a local dealer, I noticed the plastic cover where you have to take it off in order to get to the oil filter didn’t quite fit right after the mechanic did the oil change. It’s uneven unlike the last picture shown above. But all the clips and srews are on. Anyone had the same thing happen to their 3’s? I am hoping it is not because the filter itself was srew on tight enough so the cover rub against it and it doesn’t quite close evenly.

2018-01-11 by WVBrady

Yes, and I removed the third one by mistake. It appears to be slightly larger, because I had trouble putting all three of them back until I put the largest one in the third slot.

2018-01-11 by WVBrady

Yes, the third one is a different size.

2018-01-11 by WVBrady

Make sure that the cover that you removed fits under the one in front; then put the screws and pins in. I put the screws in loosely at first, to allow the cover to be positioned for the push pins. Also, I found it easier to insert the pins by holding them between my thumb and forefinger and holding the center part back until the other part was in place.

2018-03-11 by Unknown

I just purchased a used 2014 3s with 46k miles and will get an oil change done right away (I don’t believe the dealership did one). Why is Castrol recommended as opposed to Mobil 1, Royal Purple, etc?

2018-03-11 by Unknown

One more question; which Fumoto drain plug? There are many different 106s on eBay. Thanks

2018-03-18 by Unknown

I bought mine on Amazon. 10 for $7.99.


2018-08-05 by WVBrady

Thanks again for the write-up. I have a 2017. The only differences were that I had three clips instead of just one; one is a little bigger. Also, the drain plug for mine is horizontal instead of vertical. With the thin oil, it came shooting out sideways and shot over my drain pan.

2019-03-05 by KENAZ

I need an oil filter adapter for 2011 skyactiv

2019-03-05 by KENAZ

In need of oil filter adapter/Housing replacement.

2019-03-20 by Hallowtheme

Nice tutorial. I was getting ready to cgacha the oil on my son’s 2016 Mazda 3 sport, and the hex hole on the drain plug was indeed rounded out. I will probably take it somewhere to get it changed. Using my ramps, it looked like I had enough access to drain plug and filter without having to remove any clips or panels.

2019-07-02 by Trueblu

You had my attention until you mentioned FORD… FORD is a word loosely translated in its correct meaning…P.O.S.

2019-07-05 by Russell Graves

Hey, at least a Ford makes it to the road before it dies. The Dodge guys aren’t found on road dead, because they can’t get out of their driveway - the transmission is in the shop, again.

Every manufacturer makes good cars and horrible cars. Some are more biased towards one end than the other. But brand wars are for young boys who haven’t figured out that it doesn’t matter what the label on the grille is, as long as it does the job you want it to, reliably, and ideally for not that much money.

2019-07-06 by Unknown

Great advice guys as offered to do my daughter’s mazzie 3 (new to me as used to doing my aussie GM Holden alloytec v6 which has oil filter located on top of the engine beside the cam cover-a brilliant U.S. design engine! ) If an oil wrench isn’t successful in turning an overtightened oil filter and you’re desperate then here’s an old aussie bush tip:

hammer a sturdy screwdriver sideways through the filter and tap it firmly to rotate and free the seal’s grip. After you’ve drained the oil of course…as it WILL leak oil. Then loosen by hand. Always use gloves of course with used oil.

2019-07-07 by WVBrady

Thanks again for the write-up. I thought that I had lost one of the push pins, but it turns out that instead of a pin on the driver’s side there is a little clip that is built in. I was finally able to push up on it and heard it snap. I don’t know if it will stay or not.

In case I do lose one of the pins, does anyone know what size they are?

2019-07-23 by temp1243

Thanks for your write up! Living the city life now and don’t have the space or tools to DIY. I took 5 quarts to a local mechanic and instructed them to put in 4.4Q!

Sure enough, they put all 5Q and complained it was still a little low. I check myself and it’s reading about 90% of MAX. Perhaps the 4.4Q brings you to the middle stick. Uhg now I gotta buy another quart to match my spare gallon.

2019-08-19 by Unknown

Thanks for the tips and nice write up, I am a “top of the dipstick” kind of guy and would of been furious had the manual’s specs not gotten me to full and I had to make another trip for oil. Also a very nice pointer on the Fumoto valve, gonna look into that for the Mazda and my Tacoma :slight_smile:

2019-08-25 by Unknown

Hi, thanks for the write up. What’s the recommendation as in what intervals should we change the oil? is it 10,000km or less? I use the vehicle for rideshare driving so I am going through a lot of km

2019-10-19 by Unknown

Thanks a lot for the guide. This will be a cake walk now - not chance of being slightly unprepared!

2020-08-01 by Spacgoste

Thank you for the post. It was very informative. You stated you like a bigger oil filter. The Napa FIL7002 is the same dimensions as the original Mazda filter. If you want a bigger one p, Try a Purolator PL 14610. The height is 3.520 versus 2.690. It adds about a 1/4 of quart more oil. I had to trip a ridge on the cover where filter hits. After that I had plenty of clearance. My vehicle is a 2016 with 2.5l.